Although Singapore has the reputation of being the safest city
in the world, it is far from being a nocturnally sleepy town.
After hours, Singapore practically transforms itself from an
ever-so-efficient business hub to a buzzing network of bars
and nightclubs. Busy executives loosen their ties and kick up
their heels to the sound of jazz swinging at Harry's Bar along
Boat Quay, and earnest students-by-day let down their hair for
some laid-back bar-hopping at famous Mohammed Sultan Road. Pubbing
and clubbing at Singapore is a must if you want to feel the
night-pulse of the city; experience the city only by day and
you get just half of the picture.
In 1999, TIME magazine described Singapore as "swinging"
and "funky". The truth is that in the past decade,
bars and nightspots have blossomed in a big way in the Lion
City. Previously perceived as an over-protected nanny state
where its well-behaved inhabitants just don't know how to
have fun, partying the night away has instead become the norm.
Don't worry if pubbing and clubbing is not your thing. You
can also enjoy Chinese street operas, night markets, theater
productions, classical music performed by the Singapore Symphony
Orchestra, dances performed by the Singapore Dance Theatre,
international bands and off-Broadway productions. Singapore's
nightlife does, indeed, make the country a truly bustling
city.
Night Guide
Many of the bars and clubs have taken on a unique Singapore
or Southeast Asian character. You'll find restored Chinese
godowns (Asian warehouses) pumping out rap or retro, trendy
bars of glass-and-steel exteriors and Buddhist temple-style
interiors, and historic drinking dens. There's definitely
enough to keep pub-crawlers and other nocturnal creatures
well occupied. Moreover, nightspots in Singapore tend to exist
in clusters, making bar hopping even easier. The golden triangle
of nightspots -- Zouk-Mohammed Sultan-Boat Quay -- is all
a short taxi ride from one another. Be warned though - on
Friday and Saturday nights the clubbing herd comes out in
full force and you may have to call for a taxi to avoid waiting
in line.
After a hectic night of activity, settle down to supper at
one of the many 24-hour coffeehouses in the city and superb
food stalls scattered throughout the island. Teochew porridge,
caramel bean curd or just coffee and cake are just some satisfying
ways in which Singaporeans end a pleasant evening. The Newton
Circus hawker center is alive all night, while many hotels
have coffeehouses that welcome the tired and hungry until
the wee hours of the morning.
Orchard Road
Apart from being famous for shopping, this well-known stretch
also harbors some great clubs.
Venom (Pacific Plaza Penthouse, 9 Scotts Road, 6-734-7677)
boasts a state-of-the-art dance floor and a sweeping view
of Orchard Road. The theme changes every night, and the music
ranges from pop to retro to house.
For a touch of soft sophistication, go to Brix (Basement
Level, 10-12 Scotts Road 6-730-7107), which is situated in
the luxurious Grand Hyatt Hotel. The underground place is
lit up with candles, and the d?cor is warm and woody. The
pub's resident band plays every day, and the place also has
a great wine bar. Another trendy spot is Bar None (320 Orchard
Road, 6-831-4656) at The Marriott Hotel. Bar None's resident
band, Energy, is often said to be Singapore's best homegrown
music group.
If you can't get over the '80s, there's Sparks (391, Orchard
Road, Ngee Ann City Shopping Centre, 6-735-6133). This huge
entertainment complex houses a dance floor where retro music
booms loud and clear, as well as many karaoke rooms. If you've
never tried karaoke, there's no better place to do so.
For a cozy environment, head for the Emerald Hill part of
Orchard Road. Here, Peranakan-style shophouses allow you to
cradle a glass of Beaujolais at the Que Pasa wine bar (7 Emerald
Hill, 6-235-6626), or a mug of frothy Tiger at No. 5 (5, Emerald
Hill, 6-732-0818) or Ice Cold Beer (Emerald Hill, 6-735-9929).
The latter's specialty is beer - it has over 35 varieties
-- chilled in ice tanks. There's also the carnival-like atmosphere
of Papa Joe's (180, Orchard Road, Peranakan Place) with its
colorful d?cor and catchy dance music.
Mohammed Sultan Road
In the past few years, this once-forgotten back alley has
taken on legendary proportions. Once a ramshackle row of old
Chinese godowns, the street has been transformed into a vital,
throbbing artery of Singapore's nightlife. The godowns have
retained their colorful Peranakan facades, and many of the
bars in this area have adopted a Shanghai Old World type of
interior.
Needless to say, Mohammed Sultan is pub-crawler paradise.
As good a place to start as any is Wong San's. The d?cor here
revels in its Chinese warehouse-like ambience -- scarred wooden
furniture, antique calendars and faded photos of a bygone
era. The crowd is hip and young, the music pop and retro.
There are monthly parties that play around a theme, such as
The World of Suzie Wong.
Another joint with an Oriental ambience is Madam Wong's,
which is swamped every Friday night. Rumor is that the place
is haunted by Madam Wong, but that doesn't seem to worry the
people jiving to the retro music on the dance floor. The clientele
is definitely on the young side. Expect lots of tabletop dancing.
If you're tired of the Oriental thing, Sugar is a funky place
to be. One of the few gay clubs in Singapore, this nightspot
stands at the cutting-edge of hip and draws in a more creative
and avant-garde crowd. Sugar is also known for changing its
d?cor every few months - a recent makeover had make-believe
chickens, plucked and headless, hanging from the walls.
Across the road, try out the Siam Supperclub for a more upscale
ambience. While the bar is housed within the steel-and-glass
monolith of a condominium, the mood inside is definitely Far
Eastern with a modern twist. The walls are adorned with antique
stone figurines from Thailand and Vietnam, set off by the
lighting from huge red lampshades. If you wish to go even
more upscale, hop onto the minimalist dance floors of Lush
or Amoeba (207, River Valley Road, #01-5/60, 6-735-6193),
both places where you can usually spot a local celebrity or
two. The look here is spare but definitely posh.
Boat Quay & Clarke Quay
Boat Quay and Clarke Quay are dotted with restaurants as
well as pubs, so the mood here is slightly laid-back and the
crowd mixed. Patronized by serious party-goers, but also people
just out for a drink after work, couples chatting over a leisurely
dinner and tourists. The pubs are old Chinese godowns and
shophouses given a heartening facelift.
You can't walk down Boat Quay without noticing Harry's Bar
(No 28, 6-538-3029), Singapore's best-known jazz joint. The
live jazz here is of the more classic variety, although sometimes
the music branches out to acid jazz. Harry's is a popular
haunt of expatriates, especially those working in the towering
skyscrapers nearby. Nick Leeson, the infamous trader who brought
down England's Barings Bank, frequented Harry's. They've concocted
a drink there in his honor - it's called the Bankbreaker.
Another highly popular watering hole is Molly Malone's (42,
Circular Road, 6-534-5100) an Irish pub and grill that won
the Newsweek International World's Best Bar accolade in 1996.
The d?cor is so authentically Irish that you'd be forgiven
for thinking yourself in Ireland, while the mood is friendly
and mellow.
To savor more beer, take a bumboat to nearby Clarke Quay
and pop into Brewerkz Restaurant & Microbrewery (30 Merchant
Road, #01-05 Riverside Point, 6-438-7438). The large steel
vats are where the beer is made, and Brewerkz churns out the
best India Pale Ale in town. The crowd here is mostly yuppie
and expatriate, and the menu consists of pizzas, salads and
American-size burgers.
For a strong blast of the blues, head for nearby Crazy Elephant
(3E River Valley Road, #01-07 Traders Market Clarke Quay,
6-337-1990). This laid-back pub has live blues and rock n'
roll bands playing after 10pm every night except Mondays.
The d?cor is warm wood recalling the hey-day of rock n' roll,
and the graffiti makes for great reading when the band's taking
time out.
Zouk
Any review of the Singapore club scene will not be complete
without Zouk (17, Jiak Kim Street, 6-738-2988). This hugely
popular club, which has been compared with some of the best
in Europe, plays mainly techno, house and hip hop to a mostly
young crowd. Zouk's music is spun by its seven resident DJs,
while regular live acts from visiting artists such as Galliano,
Chemical Brothers, Heart and Kylie Minogue are an added draw.
Wednesday is Mambo Jambo night, when the club shakes off its
techno garb and plays a mix of 70s to 90s pop.
For those with an aversion to heavy techno, the Zouk establishment
also houses Velvet Underground, where the crowd is slightly
older and the music is mainly Soul and Garage. The mood here
is sophisticated and futuristic - the walls are adorned in
velvet and hung with original modern art works, and the furniture
has a Bauhaus feel.
Adjoining Zouk's main building is Phuture, where the music
is a more eclectic mixture of trip hop, drum 'n' bass and
down tempo. The d?cor is a futuristic, space-agey blend of
steel, liquids-in-glass-vials and state-of-the-art lighting.
As the real action at Zouk and its sister discos don't begin
until midnight, the popular place to hang out in the meantime
between dinner and dance is the Zouk Wine Bar. This stylish
bar is a great place for people-watching.
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